Chapter 5. BIG on QUALITY GENERAL QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY OVERVIEW. Internal Inspection Policy. 1. Merchandise Quality Standards

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1 Chapter 5 BIG on QUALITY GENERAL QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY OVERVIEW Internal Inspection Policy All merchandise received in the DL Group Distribution Center in Canton, MA is inspected for conformance to quality and measurement specifications. If the selected samples pass these criteria, the entire shipment is accepted. If the samples fail the inspection, the entire shipment stays on QA Hold. The procedure used is the Single Sampling Plan taken from the American National Standard Institute ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, published by the American Society of Quality Control. The disposition of shipments placed on QA Hold is made based on discussions with the Global Sourcing, Quality Assurance, Technical and Merchandising teams in Canton, MA. If the deviation from the standards is determined to be significant, the following process may be adopted: 100% inspection and / or correct at either DL Group s DC or an outside audit and repair service 100% inspection and / or correct at the Vendor Return to Vendor all defective units (RTV) Both DL Group and vendor should agree upon the final disposition of a shipment. If 100% inspection or any correction occurs, charges will be assessed to the vendor for operating, labor and possibly loss of sales incurred in resolving the problems and delaying the distribution of goods into our retail channels. For more information on our charge-backs and RTV policies, please refer to the charge-backs section of this manual. All correspondence should be sent to: VendorCompliance@dxlg.com 1. Merchandise Quality Standards Classification of Defects: Three defect classifications (critical, major and minor) have been selected that will be used to classify types of defects (refer to appendix 4). Only critical and major defects will be considered when applying the sampling plan. The defect descriptions follow: Revised 02/16/2016 Page 1

2 Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the consumer or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment. Major: Any defect that adversely affects the appearance or performance of a product, including fit or customer satisfaction. Any defect that is likely to materially reduce the usefulness of the product, or is likely to result in failure, is also a major defect. The consumer would normally be unwilling to accept such a defect, resulting in a return or complaint. Any major defects must be corrected and re-inspected before shipment leaves factory floor. Minor: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major, and would not provide a discerning customer with justification for return or complaint. The defect would not materially reduce the usefulness of the product, nor is it likely to result in failure. Please refer to Appendix 4 for Defect Terms and Classifications Location of Defects: The location of a defect is important in determining its classification (i.e., major or minor). Two defect zones (A and B) have been selected for all merchandise categories. Zone A: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is of major importance. i.e., center front, center back, top of sleeves Zone B: Identified as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is important but only of minor importance. i.e., lower hem, underarm, under-sleeves, sides of the body. Please see sample sketches of defect locations at the end of this chapter 2. Sampling Plan Parameters: Lot Size The lot size is the amount received in one purchase order from the vendor. The lot can include all colors and sizes from one style received from the vendor in the purchase order. Sampling plan is based on each purchase order. Use of Sub-Lots When necessary, additional information may be needed concerning part of the total lot. A sub-lot consisting of a separate color of a SKU within the lot, or even a separate size, may be selected for inspection. In these cases, a sub-lot (i.e., one color or one size) may be accepted even though the rest of the main lot is rejected. It is also possible to fail a sub-lot, though the rest of the main lot is accepted. Revised 02/16/2016 Page 2

3 Fabric Inspection Bulk fabric quality inspection should be performed at mill level. Fabric inspection reports must be submitted to DL Group and written approvals must be received from DL Group prior to cutting bulk fabrics. 4 Points System Penalty points are assigned for each defect according to the length thereof as set forth in the following table: Size of Defects (length in inches) Number of Penalty Points 3 or less 1 Over 3 but less than 6 2 Over 6 but less than 9 3 Over 9 4 Note: No one yard should have more than 4 penalty points. Any holes (2 or more broken ends) will be awarded 4 points. Any running defect more than 4 continuous yards will cause the roll to be rejected. Final Random Inspections (FRI) Performed to assure all units shipped are first quality merchandise, packaged, packed and shipped in full compliance with DL Group requirements. FRI should be conducted when 80% of goods are produced and packed. All FRIs must be performed for each individual style and PO. Final random inspections for the same style across multiple PO s may be performed only with prior DL Group approval. FRIs cannot consist of multiple styles without prior authorization. In-Line (During production) audits to be performed for each operation by factory/agent QA. DL Group may request in line inspection reports periodically. For agents: FRI and Compliance inspection reports must be sent to DL Group s QA team at least 72 hours before shipment departs. For vendors/factories: All vendors and factories must use Bureau Veritas for final random inspection (unless otherwise agreed upon between DL Group and the factory/vendor) on all DL Group private label merchandise. Bureau Veritas inspection services require a 2 week advance booking from your ex-factory date. FRI and Compliance Inspection reports must be approved by DL Group 72 hours before shipments exit factory. FRI Requirements: All final random inspections are conducted using a 2.5 AQL Level II Normal Inspection. Revised 02/16/2016 Page 3

4 Final Random Inspection Definitions Normal Inspection Quantities will be used for inspection of original shipments from any vendor. Normal inspection will also be used when a vendor changes place of production, materially alters the product, or an extended period of time (4 months or longer) elapses between receipts. Refer to the AQL Plans Appendix 1. Tightened Special Inspection Quantities (larger number of items inspected) will be used after two consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have failed normal inspection. When tightened inspection is in effect, normal inspection will be instituted after two consecutive shipments of an item from a vendor have been accepted. Refer to Appendix 2. Reworked Lots All reworked lots or sub-lots must be inspected 100% by either the vendor, DL Group or by third party of our choice. All fees and inspection charges will be charged back to vendor. All defective units must be repaired, cleaned or corrected or cannot be included in a reworked lot. All reworked lots will be inspected by DL Group in the same manner as the original lots. Compliance (Package & Label) Inspection To ensure inventory accuracy, we require a separate inspection procedure on packaging and labeling (stickers, tickets, jokers, PIDs, UCC128, size labels) based on our normal single sampling plan, audit level III. Refer to Appendix 2. There is zero tolerance on inaccurate packing and labeling, the shipment will be rejected if any single carton fails inspection (unless approved by DL Group). Revised 02/16/2016 Page 4

5 Appendix 1 AQL Normal Inspection Plan Lot or Batch Size Sample Size at General Inspection Level II Appendix 2 AQL Tightened Inspection Plan AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection) Major 2.5 Minor 4.0 Ac Re Ac Re 91 to to to to 1, ,201 to 3, ,201 to 10, ,001 to 35, Lot or Batch Size Sample Size at General Inspection Level III AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection) Major 1.5 Minor 2.5 Ac Re Ac Re 91 to to to to 1, ,201 to 3, ,201 to 10, ,001 to 35, Appendix 3 AQL Reduced Inspection Plan (with approval by DL Group) Lot or Batch Size Sample Size at General Inspection Level I AQL (Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection) Major 2.5 Minor 4.0 Ac Re Ac Re 91 to to to to 1, ,201 to 3, ,201 to 10, ,001 to 35, Revised 02/16/2016 Page 5

6 FRI Measurement Audit Sample size: Special inspection level 3 (S-3) e.g. If the lot size is 12,000 pieces, no. of sample to be measured is 20 pieces. Acceptable level: Out of tolerance points not more than 10% of measured points. e.g. If we measured 20 pieces, each piece has 10 measurement points(all measurement points given on the size specification). Totally, we will measure 200 points. If we found more than 20 points are out of tolerance, the result will be failed. Additional condition: If more than 5 measured pieces (same size or in different sizes) are found out of tolerance on the same primary point (key point of the garment), the result will be failed too. e.g. If the chest width of 5 measured pieces found out of tolerance, the result is failed regardless of the percentage of the out of tolerance points found. Measurement Audit Primary Points of Measure Primary points of measure are to be evaluated during measurement audit, following these guidelines. Woven Tops: Neck Opening (collar band length): Description: Lay the collar open and flat. Measure from center of button to far end of buttonhole, following contour of the band. Chest 1 below armhole Armhole Circumference Sleeve Length CBN Front Length HPS Across Shoulder Knit Tops/Sweaters: Chest 1 below armhole Armhole Circumference Sleeve Length CBN Body Length HPS Across Shoulder Bottom Sweep (relaxed) Revised 02/16/2016 Page 6

7 Bottoms: Waist Front Rise Back Rise Thigh (1 below crotch) Leg Opening Circumference Inseam Seat Width (9 below waistband) Socks: Leg Length (relaxed): Measure from the top of the leg to the bottom of the heel Leg Width (relaxed): Measure across the center of the leg from one side to the opposite side Foot Length (relaxed): Measure from the back of the heel to the toe Foot Width (relaxed): Measure across the center of the foot from one side to the opposite side Belts: Length Width Sport Jacket and Suit Jackets: Chest 1 below armhole Half Waist: Measure from the front edge of the jacket going over the top buttonhole to the center back seam. If jacket is a 3-button, measure over the center buttonhole. Jacket seat 5 from bottom: Measure 5 up from bottom and straight across the garment side to side Across Shoulder Back Length CBN Upper Arm: Measure 1 below arm opening straight across the sleeve Sleeve Opening (Relaxed) Sleeve Length Underarm Vest: Chest 1 below armhole Bottom Sweep (Relaxed) Across Shoulder Across Front 8 Down From HPS Across Back 8 Down From HPS Front Length HPS Back Length CBN Armhole Circumference Revised 02/16/2016 Page 7

8 Outerwear (Jacket): Chest 1 below armhole Bottom Sweep (Relaxed) Body Length HPS Sleeve Length CBN Across Shoulder Armhole Circumference Knits and Sweaters: Chest 1 below armhole Bottom Sweep (Relaxed) Across Shoulder Sleeve Length CBN Body Length HPS Revised 02/16/2016 Page 8

9 QUALITY ASSURANCE POLICY Testing Policy DL Group believes that quality must be built into the product. The purpose of testing is to assess, achieve and meet our customers satisfaction and expectations. Test results confirm Government Regulatory Compliance and DL Group s quality expectations are met. To achieve this goal we have developed fabric, component and garment test specifications and guidelines that our vendors/factories have the responsibility to achieve, maintain and to ensure the consistency of product performance. This focus is part of our ongoing process to continuously improve product quality. Our nominated exclusive testing laboratory service provider is Bureau Veritas. For lab contact information, guidelines and protocols follow the below link VENDOR/ AGENT / FACTORY RESPONSIBILITY Follow all testing procedures and testing requirements listed below and in the Bureau Veritas Protocol Manual. As a vendor to DL Group, you are fully responsible for all fabric, garment, trim/component and special claims testing of production merchandise. You must guarantee that fabric, garment, trim/component and special claims pass all tests before production and shipment. The best timing for fabric testing is upon the initial run of production. The best timing for component, garment and special claims testing is upon receipt of our order with the correct samples. It is the vendor s responsibility to ensure that all necessary tests are done to meet DL Group requirements. Testing is required for all products at least once every 6 months, and/or when changes have been made in production or the supplier has changed. This is also applicable to Core and E3 Replenishment Programs. Analytical Testing: Determines if harmful chemicals are present in DL Group products; and ensures compliance with U.S. and International regulations. Nickel Leaching: Any metal trim/component in direct contact to the skin which results in a positive nickel spot test will require a full Nickel Leaching test at the expense of the vendor. AZO Dye Colorants: DL Group requires that all products are AZO Free or within the AZO Dye Colorant maximum requirement of <30mg/kg. Therefore, all vendors are responsible to provide DL Group with evidence of compliance in the form of a certificate from an accredited testing laboratory to ensure conformity to the regulation. This test will be at the expense of the vendor. The AZO Free/AZO Dye Colorant certificate validity must be maintained by the vendor. Revised 02/16/2016 Page 9

10 Formaldehyde Content: DL Group requires that all products in direct contact with the skin are within the formaldehyde content maximum requirement of 75 mg/kg. Lead Testing: Any applicable surface coating or substrate lead test result must not exceed the maximum allowable limits. California Proposition 65: All products will be reviewed against the requirements of California Proposition 65 to determine if additional testing or labeling is required. Fabric Testing: All fabrics used in DL Group products must be tested per the appropriate protocol and meet DL Group standard test requirements. Bulk production cannot proceed without DL Group review and approval. Pre-production / Development Stage: Newly developed fabrics must go through our specification testing during development stage to verify the proper finishes, performance and requirements. Production Fabric Stage: All bulk fabric testing should occur as soon as the fabric is correct for construction, color, finish, etc. Testing should be planned accordingly so it will not delay bulk garment cutting and sewing. Fabric tests will help determine/verify the care instructions and fiber content labeling for the garment. Bulk fabric must not be cut until written approval is issued by DL Group. Solid/Pattern/Print Fabric: Full fabric test should be done on the first available production colorway. Other colorways are tested as Additional Color by abbreviated protocols. Fabric used in Color-Blocked Garments: Fabrics must be in the form of a color blocked mock-up and tested for colorfastness per the care instructions to ensure self-staining does not occur. Fabrics containing Wicking and Anti-fade properties: the fabric mill must submit every color in one submission to Bureau Veritas for testing. Example: If your order for style KT-1000 includes 20 colors, all 20 colors should be sent together on one trf for testing. The vendor must contact vendorcompliance@dxlg.com prior to testing if all colors cannot be submitted together. Fabric produced for Garment Wash programs: o Any fabric produced which will be going through a garment wash program must be tested after the garment wash process. o o Therefore, the fabric mill must send the garment factory two (2) square yards of all colors in order for the factory to perform the garment wash process. Once the garment wash process is complete, the garment factory will be responsible to send the fabric in all colors to Bureau Veritas for fabric testing. The fabric mill should advise the factory as to what testing package is required, such as fabric test, additional color test and/or any special claims. Revised 02/16/2016 Page 10

11 o o o o DL Group will review the completed test reports and advise their comments to the mill. If test failures occur that require improvements and retesting, the mill will make the necessary improvements and send the improved fabric to the factory with the retesting instructions. The factory will process the fabric once again and send it to Bureau Veritas for retesting. After DL Group approval, the mill can ship the bulk/improved fabric to the factory. Trim/Component Testing: ALL trims/components used on DL Group products must be tested separately per their respective protocol. Bulk production cannot proceed without DL Group review and approval. DL Group requires trim/component testing prior to the vendor s commitment to purchase. Zippers: DL Group preferred supplier is YKK. However, local manufacturing brands will be accepted based on a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Vendors should obtain written approval from DL Group prior to purchasing non YKK zippers. YKK brand also requires a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Shank Buttons: DL Group preferred supplier is Scovil. However, local manufacturing brands will be accepted based on a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Vendors should obtain written approval from DL Group prior to purchasing non Scovil shank buttons. Scovil brand also requires a passing test report from Bureau Veritas. Buttons and Metal Pins/Clips (used for the Dress Shirt Program): non-breakable buttons and non-rust pins/clips must be used on all dress shirts. The buttons and metal pins/clips must pass the applicable tests. See trim/component testing protocols for test requirements. Knit/Mesh Lining Insert Trim Fabric (Jacket Relaxer) used for Sport Coats and Suit Jackets: conduct colorfastness to crocking and perspiration only. See requirements in the trim/component protocol. New programs must carry out trim/component testing during development. Repeat programs must test all trims/components every 6 months and/or when changes have been made in production or the supplier has changed. Garment Testing: Is carried out to ensure the fabric, components/trims and garment construction are compatible and meet DL Group quality standard requirements. The garment test assesses and verifies the garment performance and the labeled care instructions. Bulk production cannot proceed without DL Group review and approval. Revised 02/16/2016 Page 11

12 Full garment testing is required on one color of each style. However, if a garment is color-blocked, a full garment test is required on one color combination and colorfastness per the care label is required for each additional color combination. All production styles have to be garment tested as soon as bulk fabric, trims/components and labels become available to factory. At times, we may require garment testing during the sampling stage to verify its performance and functionality. Sweater Testing: Full testing for sweaters should be done in garment form by style. Additional colorways can be tested for colorfastness in knit-down panels. Vendor/agent is responsible to notify labs regarding appropriate protocol, and all special claims to ensure that proper testing is performed according to DL Group requirements. If the garment contains a belt, Protocol 805 must be conducted. Repeat styles require testing every 6 months if produced by the same factory. Any change of fabric mill, factory, supplier, trim, component, label, etc. before the 6 month period will require immediate full testing. DL Group reserves the right to reject shipment if the testing program was not followed or test results were not accepted. Additional Responsibilities: Ensure there is a QA & QC process in place, in line with DL Group s requirements. At the beginning of each season s development, vendor/agent/factory must review all style development specifics on fabrics, trims/components and fit in order to set a plan for all testing and assurance protocols. Arrange testing and inspection based on time and action calendar to avoid any production delay. Any special claims on performance or special fabrics and garments must be clearly defined at the time of testing. Fabric Inspection must be performed at the mill. Fabric inspection test reports are required and must be approved by DL Group prior to bulk garment production. All vendors must use Bureau Veritas as our exclusive nominated inspection service, unless otherwise agreed upon. All inspection reports must be approved by DL Group before shipment. Please contact our QA department for Bureau Veritas inspection instructions. Inbound QC inspections are conducted by DL Group for all shipments. If a shipment fails and is deemed unacceptable based on quality, measurement, product labeling or packaging integrity; the vendor is responsible for all charges related to the associated re-work. This includes but is not limited to internal DC charges, transportation to and from 3 rd party, 3 rd party re-work charges, and cost of damaged goods including freight and duty (LDP cost) and loss of sales. DL Group is not responsible for any import duty refund. Return to Vendor goods will be charged back at full Landed Duty Paid term. All charges related to rework will be deducted from the actual PO or the next open invoice. Revised 02/16/2016 Page 12

13 Appendix 4 Defect Terms and Classification Packing and Presentation Missing size and care label Missing hang tag Missing price tickets, price stickers and PIDs Price tickets, price stickers and PIDs placed on wrong item Wrong UCC128 placement Wrong size ratio in pre pack cases Wrong SKUs mixed in single SKU cases Improper folding Soiled/Dirty/Unsealed poly bag QTY in case does not match QTY on UCC128 label PID applied in the wrong place on polybag General Use of monofilament sewing thread that will hurt customer s skin No warning clause on poly bag if required Any sharp point/sharp edge on accessories Infestation of live insect Lack of multi-languages for Fiber Content and Country of Origin (7 languages: English, French, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, German, and Russian). Lack of bi-lingual Care Instructions (French and English). Lack of 5 care symbols (Ginetex) on the care label. Needle detected Mildew/mold Strong odor Wet Holes Stains Mending place Missing bar tack (at significant area if specified) Different lots of shade from garment to garment. NEED BUYER'S APPROVAL Cleaning mark Shank pulls off during inspection pull test Critical Major Minor Critical Major Minor Revised 02/16/2016 Page 13

14 Fabric Fabric flaw / run more than 1/2" at obvious part of a garment Fabric flaw / run more than 1" at non-obvious part of a garment Hole (any size other than pinhole) Wrong or slanted grain line Critical Major Minor Pills on surface (depends on density) Color shade difference within same garment Printing fault (depends on obviousness) Barrenness on knitted fabric (depends on obviousness) Permanent crease mark Different dye lots ( Needs buyer approval ) Accessories Any missing accessory Dimension, color, art work or content not as specified Button inside out Button marking not removed Damaged button Rusted stud, snap, rivet, buckle, zipper, hook & bar, pins, clips Paint peel off on stud, snap and buckle Button and buttonhole not aligned causing bulge (depends on obviousness) Buttonhole too small to allow button to pass through Buttonhole too big Uncut / partially cut buttonhole Ragged edges at buttonhole Broken buttonhole stitches Button thread easily pulled out Critical Major Minor Wordings upside down on button / snap Gap at zip top / end (depends on size) Incomplete adhesive on interlining Illegible information on accessory Fusing bubbles/wrinkled fuse on interlining Sparse embroidery Revised 02/16/2016 Page 14

15 Workmanship and Appearance ***Stitching and Seams Critical Major Minor Irregular stitch density Loose / tight stitches Crooked stitches (depends on size) Skipped stitches Broken stitches Run-off stitches 1/4" (depends on size) Blind stitching visible (depends on obviousness) Needle cutting Exposed seam grin Insufficient seam allowance Pleated seam Seam slippage (If found on more than one garment - Critical) Puckering seam (depends on obviousness) Open seam (any size) Seam not fully opened before stitching Exposed under ply seam (depends on obviousness) Abrasion feed mark (depends on obviousness) Uncut thread ends 1" or more ***Assembling Mismatched stripes, checks or prints over 1/8" Critical Major Minor Asymmetrical collar (depends on obviousness) Uneven collar point 1/4" Facings pulling up Uneven sleeve length 1/2" or more Uneven leg length 1/2" or more High/low pockets 1/4" or more Pocket not smooth / squared (depends on obviousness) Pocket flap not centered over pocket 1/4" (depend on length) Misaligned of cuff / neck 1/4" (depends on length) Uneven hem line (depends on obviousness) Revised 02/16/2016 Page 15

16 ***Washing Different shade lots NEED BUYERS APPROVAL Uneven washing effect Streaky marks Critical Major Minor Pills / Hairy on garment surface (depends on density) Broken collar / Cuff and Hem (depends on size) Sand on garment surface Rocks inside pockets Different washing effect (if specified) NEED BUYER S APPROVAL PRIOR SHIPPING ***Pressing Critical Major Minor Wrinkle (depends on obviousness) Seam not fully pressed open Crease mark (depends on seriousness) Burn mark Water spot (depends on obviousness) Melt Glazed / Scorched mark (depends on obviousness) Pleated press Zip / button mark made by improper pressing Common defects in specific items Shirt Critical Major Minor Collar not symmetrical in size, shape or length (depends on size) Exposed under collar at outside of top collar Foreign matter sewn inside the finished collar/yoke/cuff Open seam at collar points Interlining seen through Flap points not fully turned out Revised 02/16/2016 Page 16

17 Jacket/Outerwear Critical Major Minor Puckering seam at hood facing (depends on obviousness) Front placket not down to hem 1/4" or more Uneven fullness at armhole Wrong way insertion of zip (if specified) Snap easily pulled off Uneven or loose elasticity on rib/bottom Loose quilting stitches Malfunctioning of buckle/snap/zipper Fabric easily torn at snap position A noticeable amount of down percolation on the lining Down leakage Exposed drill hole Incompatible interfacing causing cracking, puckering or bubbling Corresponding pockets horizontally uneven or misaligned 1/4" or more Color yarn caught inside shell fabric but obviously seen from outside Jeans High-low waistband ends 1/4" or more Waistband corners not folded in right shape Inclined belt loops Critical Major Minor Mismatched belt loop color (depends on obviousness) Pocket bag caught in tack Missing bartack (at significant area if specified) Bulged fly (depends on obviousness) Zip exposed when buttoned Rusted studs / rivets Twisted leg 1/2" or more Holes at hem after stone washing 1/4" or more Revised 02/16/2016 Page 17

18 Knitted T-Shirt Neck opening / collar not symmetrical Asymmetric body shape Twisted body at side seam 1/2" or more Critical Major Minor Twisted/slanted/curved/pleated placket (depends on obviousness) Exposed row edge at cuff/hem (depends on obviousness) Twisted seam at cuff / bottom (depends on obviousness) Untrimmed seam allowance at inside hem (inside garment) Mismatched rib color (depends on obviousness) Mismatched stripes / checks at shoulder / side seam 1/8" or above (depends on size) Neck opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) Neck opening too big Sweater Critical Major Minor Wrong knitting pattern Barre Thin/thick place Single yarn (depending on seriousness) Slub yarn Split yarn Yarn run Knots (depending on size and frequency) Hole (other than normal loop hole) Dirty yarn Dropped stitches Garment weight below specification 1/2 lb or above Neck / opening too small (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) Twisted sleeve 1/2" or more Twisted body 1/2" or more at side seam Shoulder seam / side seam / underarm seam shown at front High/low placket 1/4" on bottom Revised 02/16/2016 Page 18

19 Sweater (continued) Critical Major Minor Zigzag seaming at armhole Facing exposed at placket Harsh hand feel Melt or excessive wash Spirally (10º or more) Loose linking Untrimmed seaming thread Tight/Insecure seam end at cuff/hem Different color of seaming yarn Glazed or scorched press at seam Flat press at cable Shiny press at seaming Less elastic at rib cuff/hem Irremovable crease line Pull-out loop Leather Garments Critical Major Minor Color shade difference within same garment Needle cutting Scratch/surgery/brand/burnt/paint/cut/stretch mark Glue/hammer mark Belly/marbled/drawn/discolored grain Dead fold mark/setting out pleats Without silica gel pack or no warning clause on it Variation in skin thickness across the garment Weak adhesion Loose hair on fur Pencil mark Button mark Hanger mark Scattered leather Grain break/peeling/wrinkles/cracks Pinholes Score Revised 02/16/2016 Page 19

20 Leather Garments Critical Major Minor Brine draw Salt pits Large hair follicle holes in pig split affecting appearance Blood stain (if found in more than 1 garment - Critical) PVC Garments Critical Major Minor Fold mark (depending on seriousness) PVC torn at button PVC adhesion Needle damaged Socks Critical Major Minor Uncut thread end Strings joining diamonds less than 1-1/4 inch Waviness at toe seam Pattern / embroidery deviated from center Misplated Twisted grain / ribs (¼ inch) Uneven toe Open seam at heel gore Pilling Barre Uneven sock length (max. 1/4 inch within the pair) Uneven sock length (max. ½ inch from pair to pair) Uneven Top width (max. 1/8 inch within the pair) Uneven Top width (max. ¼ inch from pair to pair) Spot Hole Wrong hook direction Misprint / invisible print on capper Sticker placement not centered (1/4 inch) Revised 02/16/2016 Page 20

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